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Saturday, May 3, 2014

What To Know The Current Time In India: No Doubt About It, It's Kerala Time!

By Mitchell Jones


You may be an Indian ex-pat looking to return a bit for some flavor of home or an aspiring tourist anxious to experience the magic that is India. In either case, you want to know where the hottest place to be is.

As far as I'm concerned, there's no doubt about it: the place to be in India these days is Kerala. Forget about all the cliches of Katmandu and Goa; there's yesterday destination. Unless you actually want to be a trophy of irony, forget all about them. Sure, Mumbai and Delhi certainly have their appeal. But, let's be honest, there is an intensity, a weight of sheer human presence, in those cities, which just isn't everyone's cup of chai.

No, I say, if your goal is an India excursion which offers the best of all that country's remarkable travel opportunities, there's no doubt that, right now, the current time in India is Kerala time! Kerala is located along the south-western coast of India. It provides everything an aspiring adventurer could hope for in a memorable Indian visit.

If you think I'm exaggerating, check out these great features:

Kochi, still on some maps called Cochin, is the commercial center of Kerala and a place both happening and stunning. The city straddles an extensive backwaters region, which encompasses the northern end of a peninsula, several islands and a portion of the mainland. Ferries ply the waters of this beautiful natural harbor where I personally have experienced dolphins swimming so close to the low sitting boat that I could reach out and touch them.

The built environment also nicely complements the natural setting. Kochi has a history of diverse colonization, including a century and a half under the Portuguese. Whatever you think of colonialism in principle, this rich experience of cultural crossroads has left the city with a pretty amazing architectural legacy.

Don't let all that gorgeous nature and culture mislead you, though. When urban rocking is the name of the game, Kochi can deliver there, too. The town has a happening nightlife: restaurants provide great food from all the regions of India, along with a fine assortment international dining options. And once dinner is done, you can hang out at any of an assortment of cafes, including some artsy spots. Or, if it's more your speed, don't worry, there are plenty of clubs and pubs to party away the eve.

And when you've had enough of the big city action and want to get away to more subdued settings, Kerala fills that need just as well. For those who want to be on the move, we recommend exploring the backwaters. They are composed of lagoons and lakes parallel to what used to be known more exotically as the Malabar Coast. These lakes and lagoons are linked by a network of canals and rivers.

Among the two top options in exploring the backwaters is a visit to Alappuzha (still sometime referred to as Alleppey on maps). It is the settlement center of the backwaters region; a delightful town crisscrossed by so many canals that it has come to be known as Venice of the East. It was a main trading center for a long time and remains an intriguing place to explore.

The other really popular backwater adventure is to book passage on one of the kettuvallams, or Kerala houseboats. About 2000 of these kettuvallams make their way through the Kerala backwaters. Originally built to be grain barges, the kettuvallams have since been converted into what might be best described as floating cottages. Their thatched roofs enclose a comfy sleeping area and usually a Western style inboard toilet. Part of the boat is converted into an outdoor deck, perfect for viewing the scenery, watching the sunset and eating the Kerala-style meals prepared by the crew.

If, though, even that's too hectic a pace for you; all you really want is to stretch out on the sand, suck on a refreshing beverage and read a good book, Kerala has that covered, too. There are a number of options, but we will only mention one here - and a total gem it is. Varkala is the lounger's paradise. However, despite this totally chilled atmosphere, it has the additional benefit of being largely free of the Western hippies and raver kids so prevalent in similar spots along the Malabar coast.

The lush tropical coastline and exquisite beach is punctuated by the geologically unique cliffs around which the seaside village is located. There is a series of small shops - stretching over a kilometer - that run along the top edge of the cliffs. There are so many lovely places to simultaneously feed the palate, the eyes and the soul, that this is a location that has to be seen to be believed. (To get some fleeting sense of the delights, check out the video at our post: The Current Time in India is Varkala Time!)

And if you're so hard to please that even all that isn't quite enough (and you actually do plan on leaving the beach for more than a delicious seafood lunch), Varkala has a 2000 year old temple, which is an important Vaishnavaite shrine. Plus, it is a major center of Ayurvedic medicine. Heck, it even has an Ayurvedic hospital! Could you really ask for more?

If you're already fantasizing about it, Kerala is easy to reach. International flights come into both Kochi and the Kerala capital city of Thiruvananthapuram (about 32 miles, or 50km from Varkala). However, if you can afford the time, I'd recommended making even more of an adventure out of your holiday. Instead, fly into the even better served Mumbai airport. After the necessary trip to visit Bollywood, you can book passage on the wonderful Konkan railway, which will carry you down the west coast. When I first traveled through India, back in the 1970s, this railway didn't exist. It has been a huge boon to Indian travel since its opening in 1998.

Whatever you choose, the Konkan adventure or flight right into Kochi, don't hesitate: get yourself to Kerala. These great locations don't last forever: their very popularity soon undoes them. So, don't miss Kerala, now, while in the full bloom of its glory. The current time in India is, indeed, Kerala time!




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